Black trailblazers who revolutionized fashion, including Rihanna, Law Roach, more

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Black trailblazers who revolutionized fashion, including Rihanna, Law Roach, more

Among the pleats and seams of the fashion world, there have been Black trailblazers making the industry more inclusive with their unprecedented innovation and creativity. Many groundbreaking designers, editors and models have changed the fashion discourse, which has been historically elitist and prejudiced against people of color. We are celebrating people who brought diversity to the runway and magazine pages, paving a way for better representation in fashion. Law Roach, the self-proclaimed image architect, is the stylist to some of Hollywood ' s biggest stars including Zendaya, Kerry Washington, Keke Palmer and Megan Thee Stallion. On Nov. 7 he was awarded the inaugural stylist award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. After receiving the award he recalled how Michael Kors invited him to attend the CFDA Awards in 2016 where he watched the show from the kitchen. " I sat in the kitchen and I watched from the kitchen as the waiters served your food and served your drinks and I just said to myself, ' One day, I ' m going to be on that stage, ' " said an overwhelmed Roach . " I am the example that anything is possible. "

Among the pleats and seams of the fashion world, there have been Black trailblazers making the industry more inclusive with their unprecedented innovation and creativity. Many groundbreaking designers, editors and models have changed the fashion discourse, which has been historically elitist and prejudiced against people of color. We are celebrating people who brought diversity to the runway and magazine pages, paving a way for better representation in fashion. 

Law Roach, the self-proclaimed image architect, is the stylist to some of Hollywood’s biggest stars including Zendaya, Kerry Washington, Keke Palmer and Megan Thee Stallion. On Nov. 7 he was awarded the inaugural stylist award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. After receiving the award he recalled how Michael Kors invited him to attend the CFDA Awards in 2016 where he watched the show from the kitchen. 

“I sat in the kitchen and I watched from the kitchen as the waiters served your food and served your drinks and I just said to myself, ‘One day, I’m going to be on that stage,'” said an overwhelmed Roach. “I am the example that anything is possible.”

Dimitrios Kambouris, Getty Images

Andr é Leon Talley, who died in January 2022, was the first Black person to serve as creative director at Vogue magazine. He worked at the fashion bible from 1983 until 2013 and used his high editorial positions to shape the fashion industry as a whole. " I quietly worked to bring more of that newness into the room: fashion editorials featuring young black models Naomi Campbell and Veronica Webb; a photo feature on the flamboyant ball culture of New York ' s queer people of color … I sounded no bullhorn over diversity but nurtured it where I could, " he wrote in an op-ed for The Washington Post in 2019.

André Leon Talley, who died in January 2022, was the first Black person to serve as creative director at Vogue magazine. He worked at the fashion bible from 1983 until 2013 and used his high editorial positions to shape the fashion industry as a whole. 

“I quietly worked to bring more of that newness into the room: fashion editorials featuring young black models Naomi Campbell and Veronica Webb; a photo feature on the flamboyant ball culture of New York’s queer people of color … I sounded no bullhorn over diversity but nurtured it where I could,” he wrote in an op-ed for The Washington Post in 2019.

Craig Barritt, Getty Images For Johnson & Johns

Beverly Johnson paved the way as the first Black woman to appear on the cover of Vogue for the August 1974 issue. "Being on the cover meant that you had won the Oscar; you had a gold medal," she told Vogue in December 2021. "That’s where I wanted to go. I wanted to be at the top of the profession. Not just the top Black model; I wanted to be the top model. Period."

Beverly Johnson paved the way as the first Black woman to appear on the cover of Vogue for the August 1974 issue. “Being on the cover meant that you had won the Oscar; you had a gold medal,” she told Vogue in December 2021. “That’s where I wanted to go. I wanted to be at the top of the profession. Not just the top Black model; I wanted to be the top model. Period.”

VALERIE MACON, AFP Via Getty Images

Fashion designer Maximilian Davis trailblazed as the first Black creative director for the Italian fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo. Davis displayed his first collection under the label during Milan Fashion Week on Sept. 24. Davis ' refresh of the luxury goods label was complete with a red wash and simplified logo.

Fashion designer Maximilian Davis trailblazed as the first Black creative director for the Italian fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo. Davis displayed his first collection under the label during Milan Fashion Week on Sept. 24. Davis’ refresh of the luxury goods label was complete with a red wash and simplified logo. 

Vittorio Zunino Celotto, Getty Images

Designer Stephen Burrows is a fashion icon known for bringing color and movement to clothes. He was taught to sew by his grandmother when he was 8 years old and grew to become one of the first Black designers to gain international success. Burrows was the first Black designer to win a Coty American Fashion Critics ' Award for womenswear, a coveted title in the fashion industry from 1942 to 1984. He was also the only Black designer who attended the " Battle of Versailles " in 1973 , a showdown between top French and American designers that put American fashion on the international stage.

Designer Stephen Burrows is a fashion icon known for bringing color and movement to clothes. He was taught to sew by his grandmother when he was 8 years old and grew to become one of the first Black designers to gain international success. Burrows was the first Black designer to win a Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for womenswear, a coveted title in the fashion industry from 1942 to 1984. He was also the only Black designer who attended the “Battle of Versailles” in 1973,a showdown between top French and American designers that put American fashion on the international stage. 

Stephen Lovekin, Getty Images

Rihanna's name recognition started with her early 2000s music debut, but decades later she's come to be known for her fashion and cosmetics lines.The artist launched Fenty Beauty in 2017 in partnership with luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. In addition to her beauty industry endeavors, Rihanna also gave the world the Savage X Fenty lingerie line and became the first Black woman to head a luxury house with LVMH when she introduced her now-shuttered Fenty fashion label. Her multiple business ventures propelled Rihanna into billionaire status. Fenty Beauty changed the makeup landscape when it launched with a then-unprecedented 40 shades of foundation to better fit the needs of people of color. Her innovation prompted the "Fenty Effect" and jolted other beauty brands to expand their shade ranges for complexion products.

Rihanna’s name recognition started with her early 2000s music debut, but decades later she’s come to be known for her fashion and cosmetics lines.The artist launched Fenty Beauty in 2017 in partnership with luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. In addition to her beauty industry endeavors, Rihanna also gave the world the Savage X Fenty lingerie line and became the first Black woman to head a luxury house with LVMH when she introduced her now-shuttered Fenty fashion label. Her multiple business ventures propelled Rihanna into billionaire status.Fenty Beauty changed the makeup landscape when it launched with a then-unprecedented 40 shades of foundation to better fit the needs of people of color. Her innovation prompted the “Fenty Effect” and jolted other beauty brands to expand their shade ranges for complexion products.

LEONARDO MUNOZ, AFP Via Getty Images

Designer and collaborator Daniel " Dapper Dan " Day had a notorious start in the fashion world, but his fashion influence outweighed his beginnings. In the 1980s, he dressed many hip-hop icons with knockoff Gucci, Fendi and Louis Vuitton prints. Representatives for Fendi (one of which was now-Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor) and MCM raided the designer ' s shop which led to Dapper Dan closing his Harlem store in the 1990s. In 2017, he and Gucci began a partnership, which put his " logomania " designs back in the cultural spotlight. The Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in 2021 . " None of the big brands were making coats and jackets. That wasn ’ t available, " Dapper Dan told The Associated Press in 2018 , adding that it " left the whole field open for me. "

Designer and collaborator Daniel “Dapper Dan” Day had a notorious start in the fashion world, but his fashion influence outweighed his beginnings. In the 1980s, he dressed many hip-hop icons with knockoff Gucci, Fendi and Louis Vuitton prints. Representatives for Fendi (one of which was now-Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor) and MCM raided the designer’s shop which led to Dapper Dan closing his Harlem store in the 1990s. In 2017, he and Gucci began a partnership, which put his “logomania” designs back in the cultural spotlight. The Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Awardin 2021. 

“None of the big brands were making coats and jackets. That wasn’t available,” Dapper Dan told The Associated Press in 2018, adding that it “left the whole field open for me.”

Mike Coppola, Getty Images

Clothes can ' t walk a runway without a model — or can they? When the pandemic halted Anifa Mvuemba ' s New York Fashion Week debut of her Hanifa fashion label in 2020, she got creative. Mvuemba put on a 3D fashion show on Instagram in which the clothes were shown on curvy silhouettes with invisible bodies animating the designs. The social media runway show went viral, gaining the attention of the fashion world. InStyle magazine named her as the future of fashion honoree in 2021.

Clothes can’t walk a runway without a model — or can they? When the pandemic halted Anifa Mvuemba’s New York Fashion Week debut of her Hanifa fashion label in 2020, she got creative. Mvuemba put on a 3D fashion show on Instagram in which the clothes were shown on curvy silhouettes with invisible bodies animating the designs. The social media runway show went viral, gaining the attention of the fashion world. InStyle magazine named her as the future of fashion honoree in 2021. 

Emma McIntyre, Getty Images For InStyle

Ann Lowe was the brilliant mind behind the seams of former first lady Jackie Kennedy ' s wedding dress. Lowe was one of the first Black fashion designers to make her mark on the industry, but was left out of the annals of fashion history because many of her upper echelon clients refused to give her acknowledgment. After designing the gowns of Kennedy and her bridal party, reportedly the former first lady anonymously credited Lowe as " a colored dressmaker. "

Ann Lowe was the brilliant mind behind the seams of former first lady Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress. Lowe was one of the first Black fashion designers to make her mark on the industry, but was left out of the annals of fashion history because many of her upper echelon clients refused to give her acknowledgment. After designing the gowns of Kennedy and her bridal party, reportedly the former first lady anonymously credited Lowe as “a colored dressmaker.” 

Bettmann, Bettmann Archive Via Getty Images

Fashion writer Samira Nasr is the first Black editor-in-chief of the long-running Harper ' s Bazaar fashion magazine. She earned the title in 2020, marking a change in the magazine ' s more than 150-year history. Nasr ' s tenure at the helm has seen many high-profile celebrities on the cover, namely Beyonc é ' s September 2021 cover, and the June digital cover which featured the trailblazing women behind FX ' s " Pose " : Janet Mock, MJ Rodriguez and Indya Moore. Previously, Nasr was the executive fashion director at Vanity Fair.

Fashion writer Samira Nasr is the first Black editor-in-chief of the long-running Harper’s Bazaar fashion magazine.She earned the title in 2020, marking a change in the magazine’s more than 150-year history. Nasr’s tenure at the helm has seen many high-profile celebrities on the cover, namely Beyoncé’s September 2021 cover, and the June digital cover which featured the trailblazing women behind FX’s “Pose”: Janet Mock, MJ Rodriguez and Indya Moore. Previously, Nasr was the executive fashion director at Vanity Fair.

Jamie McCarthy, (Credit Too Long, See Caption)

Veronica Webb is the first Black model to land a beauty deal with a major cosmetic line. In 1992, Webb signed a contract with Revlon, giving a more diverse representation in the beauty industry. Webb told Allure magazine in February 2021 what the deal with Revlon meant for advancing people of color in fashion. " Once you get the door open, hold the elevator, " she said. " The Revlon contract gave me the power to say that I needed to see top-flight Black talent on set, because at that time there wasn ' t a Black hairdresser or makeup artist, photographer ’ s assistant, or caterer, for that matter, who was working with me. My legacy at Revlon and in the fashion industry is creating opportunity for people of color. "

Veronica Webb is the first Black model to land a beauty deal with a major cosmetic line. In 1992, Webb signed a contract with Revlon, giving a more diverse representation in the beauty industry. Webb told Allure magazine in February 2021 what the deal with Revlon meant for advancing people of color in fashion. 

“Once you get the door open, hold the elevator,” she said. “The Revlon contract gave me the power to say that I needed to see top-flight Black talent on set, because at that time there wasn’t a Black hairdresser or makeup artist, photographer’s assistant, or caterer, for that matter, who was working with me. My legacy at Revlon and in the fashion industry is creating opportunity for people of color.”

Dia Dipasupil, Getty Images For NYFW: The Shows

Naomi Sims, who is also recognized as the first Black supermodel, was the first Black woman to appear on the cover of Ladies ' Home Journal in 1968 and was the first Black model to appear on the cover of Life magazine. Beverly Johnson told NPR in 2009 that Sims provided the foundation that Johnson wanted to " mirror. " " I mean she was very sophisticated, and you know, she had some qualities that I would never be able to duplicate, but she most certainly was - not only for Black models but for models, she was at her time the biggest model period, " she said at the time.

Naomi Sims, who is also recognized as the first Black supermodel, was the first Black woman to appear on the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal in 1968 and was the first Black model to appear on the cover of Life magazine. Beverly Johnson told NPR in 2009 that Sims provided the foundation that Johnson wanted to “mirror.”

“I mean she was very sophisticated, and you know, she had some qualities that I would never be able to duplicate, but she most certainly was – not only for Black models but for models, she was at her time the biggest model period,” she said at the time. 

Ron Galella, Ron Galella Collection Via Getty Images

Model and TikTok star Emira D'Spain in 2022 became the first Black transgender model to work with Victoria's Secret. The lingerie brand faced backlash in 2018 about its stance on trans representation when then-chief marketing officer Ed Razed told Vogue he didn't think the Victoria's Secret fashion show should include "transsexuals" because "the show is a fantasy." Razek later apologized for his comments. "I want to empower young trans women and men around the world to show them that the beauty and fashion industries are changing, especially if you are a POC. I am so grateful to work with Victoria’s Secret and hope this paves the way for those after me," D'Spain said in a statement to USA TODAY after announcing the partnership.

Model and TikTok star Emira D’Spain in 2022 became the first Black transgender model to work with Victoria’s Secret. The lingerie brand faced backlash in 2018 about its stance on trans representation when then-chief marketing officer Ed Razed told Vogue he didn’t think the Victoria’s Secret fashion show should include “transsexuals” because “the show is a fantasy.” Razek later apologized for his comments.

“I want to empower young trans women and men around the world to show them that the beauty and fashion industries are changing, especially if you are a POC. I am so grateful to work with Victoria’s Secret and hope this paves the way for those after me,” D’Spain said in a statement to USA TODAY after announcing the partnership. 

Dimitrios Kambouris, Getty Images

Ghanaian-born Edward Enninful serves as the first Black editor-in-chief of British Vogue after stepping into the position in 2017. Before becoming the leader of the U.K. fashion magazine, he worked as a stylist and fashion director at i-D magazine. He has used his leading position at the magazine to feature covers with diverse models. The February 2022 cover went viral on social media as it featured a star-studded team of African models who he said " are redefining what it is to be a fashion model. " " Vogue is bigger than any of us. (I ’ m) like a guardian. While I ’ m here, I have to guard this incredible brand and make sure that when I ' m not here, it ' s still going. And for me, Vogue always has to represent the times in which we live, " he told Vogue Business in 2019.

Ghanaian-born Edward Enninful serves as the first Black editor-in-chief of British Vogue after stepping into the position in 2017. Before becoming the leader of the U.K. fashion magazine, he worked as a stylist and fashion director at i-D magazine. He has used his leading position at the magazine to feature covers with diverse models. The February 2022 cover went viral on social media as it featured a star-studded team of African models who he said “are redefining what it is to be a fashion model.” 

“Vogue is bigger than any of us. (I’m) like a guardian. While I’m here, I have to guard this incredible brand and make sure that when I’m not here, it’s still going. And for me, Vogue always has to represent the times in which we live,” he told Vogue Business in 2019.  

Pascal Le Segretain, Getty Images

" Want to be on top? " Tyra Banks can make that happen. The supermodel started modeling at 15 and quickly rose to superstardom, becoming the first Black woman to be featured on the cover of GQ in 1996 and a year later made history as the first Black woman on the cover of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue. Her show " America ' s Next Top Model " first premiered on UPN in 2003 and launched the careers of several celebrities including Eva Marcille, Fatima Siad and Yaya DeCosta.

“Want to be on top?” Tyra Banks can make that happen. The supermodel started modeling at 15 and quickly rose to superstardom, becoming the first Black woman to be featured on the cover of GQ in 1996 and a year later made history as the first Black woman on the cover of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue.  Her show “America’s Next Top Model” first premiered on UPN in 2003 and launched the careers of several celebrities including Eva Marcille, Fatima Siad and Yaya DeCosta.

Emma McIntyre, Getty Images For Dcp

Fashion designer Willi Smith was a pioneer in the industry and was a rising talent before he died in 1987. Smith ' s designs put today ' s popular streetwear designs on the main stage, making clothes that were both affordable and accessible. In 1983, he won the Coty American Fashion Critics ' Award for womenswear, a year before the voting body gave its last award in 1984. Before his death, his designs were grossing more than $25 million and were sold in more than 500 department stores. " I don ' t design clothes for the queen, ' " Smith once said, according to The New York Times , " But for the people who wave at her as she goes by. ' '

Fashion designer Willi Smith was a pioneer in the industry and was a rising talent before he died in 1987. Smith’s designs put today’s popular streetwear designs on the main stage, making clothes that were both affordable and accessible. In 1983, he won the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for womenswear, a year before the voting body gave its last award in 1984. Before his death, his designs were grossing more than $25 million and were sold in more than 500 department stores. 

“I don’t design clothes for the queen,’ ” Smith once said, according to The New York Times, “But for the people who wave at her as she goes by.”

Rose Hartman, Getty Images

Supermodel Naomi Campbell became the first Black woman to cover French Vogue in 1988 and a year later became the first Black woman to cover the September issue of Vogue in 1989, the largest issue the magazine puts out annually. In an Instagram post after Talley ' s death, Campbell credited her late friend for " encouraging me to pick up the phone and calling Anna Wintour and asking for my first American Vogue cover September issue. "

Supermodel Naomi Campbell became the first Black woman to cover French Vogue in 1988 and a year later became the first Black woman to cover the September issue of Vogue in 1989, the largest issue the magazine puts out annually. In an Instagram post after Talley’s death, Campbell credited her late friend for “encouraging me to pick up the phone and calling Anna Wintour and asking for my first American Vogue cover September issue.” 

Kristy Sparow, Getty Images

Sean "Diddy" Combs is a man of many talents: He's a rapper, producer and entrepreneur. But the "I'll Be Missing You" artist also made fashion history in 2001 when he put his Sean John clothing brand, which featured both streetwear and formal wear, on display with the first TV fashion show during New York Fashion Week. The runway was visible from home as audiences could watch on E! and what used to be the Style Network. Combs marked the rise of Sean John as a transition of hip-hop fashion going mainstream. "When I think about the whole journey, it truly was a fashion revolution from how things were then and to see the impact we had on style," Combs told The Washington Post in 2016 . "Hip-hop fashion is now dominant." In recent years, Combs' legacy has been tarnished as he faces an onslaught of sexual assault and misconduct allegations . The rapper is currently in jail awaiting trial on federal sex trafficking and racketeering charges.

Sean “Diddy” Combs is a man of many talents: He’s a rapper, producer and entrepreneur. But the “I’ll Be Missing You” artist also made fashion history in 2001 when he put his Sean John clothing brand, which featured both streetwear and formal wear, on display with the first TV fashion show during New York Fashion Week. The runway was visible from home as audiences could watch on E! and what used to be the Style Network. Combs marked the rise of Sean John as a transition of hip-hop fashion going mainstream. “When I think about the whole journey, it truly was a fashion revolution from how things were then and to see the impact we had on style,” Combs told The Washington Post in 2016. “Hip-hop fashion is now dominant.”In recent years, Combs’ legacy has been tarnished as he faces an onslaught of sexual assault and misconduct allegations. The rapper is currently in jail awaiting trial on federal sex trafficking and racketeering charges.

ANDREW KELLY, REUTERS

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